Wiring around and with the B&O is a pain in the ***. I'm still planning to replace them in part 2 - kicking around some Focals at the moment - but it's already much better than the OEM sound. A better amp, much better DSP, and deadening in the doors really brings the sound out of these things. Surprisingly, they work pretty well in this setup. I haven't replaced the stock speakers yet ( edit: replacement done, see part 2) - I was curious to see how well the new B&O hold up compared to the Sony's, which may as well been made out of paper-mache for all the good they did. That, and overall the system just isn't that loud.īuryl sound deadening in all 4 doors, inner and outer panelsĪmp the speakers via an Audison 8.9, a combo amp with a great DSP and active crossovers, and a separate amp powering an underseat subwoofer (Kenwood XR600.1)įor the underseat sub I picked the Audison APBX10DS hideway, which fits perfectly under the seat and knocks the factory sub clean out of the water.though I am probably going to add another one of these in part 2: the doors, which soak up those middle freqs like a wad of Brawny picks up water. The other speakers are actually pretty decent for "premium" OEM but suffer from muddy sound in the mid-range, a common problem due to subpar amplification and being installed in giant resonating sheet metal i.e. In particular the B&O sub is A) not that powerful and B) in need of level management, which it does not have. Still, it's.ok? Not bad? Faint praise is the best I could muster so I decided to do something about it. A runner who comes in 6th place in a race is better than the one who came in 8th, too.Įdit: Part 3 is here with an update on using the Nav-TV a2b, which I now consider a must have for integration with aftermarket amps & dsps with the B&O Play. Not that being better than the Sony is a high bar to clear. The B&O is the replacement for the Sony "premium" system in 2018 models, and to answer the question that always comes up: Yes, it is better than the Sony. Well thats it for now.Finished part one of my B&O Play upgrade. I bought KnuKonceptz connectors with the screw set. couldnt find my heat gun so I used the toaster over. I cut a piece off to run to battery to the inline fuse all purty like. Ill probably trim some more off after when I decide where the amp lands. And even after I ran the cable all the to the drivers side of the back and left a little slack I cut it and had 5 feet left. It was a 20 foot cable ( I bought a 20 so I would enough left over for a ground wire). I couldnt find it on the inside but then my 15 year old reached up and found it first try! I proceeded to run it down the passenger side in the well underneath the coversthen behind the carpet along the back behind the back seats. I used a fish tape from outside the truck into the cab. it's hot out there!įord gave us a PERFECT place to run the wire right behind the battery on the firewall with a perfectly places and sized grommet (it will fit 0 gauge for sure too). I absolutely will be changing them in phase 2. I am not changing the stock speakers in the first phase. I am using a Alpine S-W10D4 subwoofer wired to 2OHMĦ. I have a Fox Acoustics ported 10" Fox Boxĥ. I am re-using my Pioneer D9605 amplifier that I had in my last truck (07 Chevy Avalanche) - it's a 5 channel amp with 75x4 (4OHM) and 600x1 (2OHM).Ĥ. I am using HUSH AUDIO CK11 pre-built harness (recommended as it looks freaking clean as hell!)ģ. I have a pretty clear plan, I am just documenting it because you never know if it will help someone else.ġ. First, I am not looking for advice but its always welcome.
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